SOCKS FOR BOOTS - A TUTORIAL

 Here is what the fuss is all about -

  The Knitted Hiking Boot Sock pattern

                             Materials:   Worsted Weight super wash wool, set of 5 double pointed needles, 3-3/4m.

Stitches used:

 k2p2 – Knit two, purl two ribbing

                                St – stitch

                                St st – stocking stitch

                                K – knit

                                P – purl

                                Sl1 – slip one stitch

                                Ssk – slip one stitch, slip next stitch, knit together through the back loop

                                P2tog – purl two stitches together

                                K2tog  - knit two stitches together

Sl1k1 PSSO – slip one stitch, knit one stitch, pass slipped stitch over knit stitch and off needle

Directions: 

These socks are knitted from the top down to the toe.

 Using the German long tail cast on method (or the cable cast on method), cast on 48 stitches to make a sock sized for a woman.    The objective here is to have an elastic cast on. 

Divide the 48 stitches you have just cast on, onto 4 needles as follows:  k2p2 for 12 stitches, now pick up a new needle, k2p2 the next 12 stitches, pick up new needle, k2p2 next 12 stitches, pick up new needle k2p2 last 12 stitches.

Your stitches are divided onto 4 needles, and your fifth needle is empty, ready to join into a square.

Making sure there are no twists and your stitches are hanging straight on the four needles, bring needle #4 around to meet up with needle #1.  

Next :  transfer the first stitch on needle #1 onto the end of needle #4.  Now take the last stitch on needle #4 over that transferred stitch, and place it on needle #l.

 You have successfully crossed these two stitches and joined your 4 needles into a square  and in the process tightened up the join so there will be no annoying gap at the beginning of the rib.

Note: it’s important to leave your cast on tail fairly long to mark the middle of the heel and for ease of darning  in later.  Laying your square flat, moving clockwise around it, needle #1 is always the first needle to the left of the tail, needles 2 and 3 hold the stitches for the front or instep of the sock, needle #4 makes up the other side of the heel stitches.

Keep in mind you are knitting a tube.  This is the leg portion of your sock.

Next round:  k2p2 around from one needle to the next clockwise.  Continue K2p2 pattern for at least 3 inches, ending the rib where your tail hangs at the end of needle #4.  This gives you a very decent cuff for your boot sock which can be folded over, or left long.   

Next Round:  Knit  around for about 5 or so inches to complete the rest of the leg tube, ending with needle #4 again.   The length of the leg of your sock should be at least 8 inches from the cast on edge.  On a boot sock like this you want a nice long leg so you could even make it longer if you wish.

.

  Heel flap

The Heel flap is knitted on two needles back and forth

 Row 1, Knit across Needle #1.   Turn your work.

Row 2, Slip first stitch purlwise, purl across needle #1 to end. then purl all the stitches from needle #4 onto needle #1

You should now have 24 stitches on needle #1, leaving needle #2 and 3 resting at the front of the sock, and needle #4 stowed safely in your kit bag, and your fifth needle ready to knit with.  Don’t worry about Needles 2 and 3. Their turn comes later.

Row 3,* Sl1k1 across the 24 stitches, turn.

Row 4, sl1, purl across, turn* 

Repeat rows 3 and 4 twelve more times, ending with a purl row and ready to knit the next row.     You have actually completed 24 rows

Turning the Heel 

This heel is called The Round Heel .  There are other heels.  If you enjoy sock knitting, you’ll probably want to explore them, but this is a beginning. 

You are still  knitting back and forth on two needles for the heel turning.

 Slip one, knit first  11 stitches, Knit 2, slip 1, knit one, pass slip stitch over, knit 1, turn.

Next row: slip one purlways, purl 5 stitches, purl 2 together, purl one, turn

Next row: slip one, knit 6 st, sl1k1 psso, k 1, turn

Next row: slip one, p7, p 2 tog, p1, turn

You will notice a pattern here – you are knitting and purling to one stitch before the gap, then working over the gap by either a sl1k1 psso or purl 2tog.    This is called short row knitting, and it shapes the sock heel so you are ready to pick up the gusset stitches and knit the foot of the sock.  Trust the pattern – this is the magical part of sock knitting.

Next row: slip one, k 8, sl1k1 psso, k1, turn

Next row: sl 1, p9, p2tog, p1, turn

Next row:  sl 1, k 10, Sl1k1 psso, k1, turn

Next row:  sl 1, p 11, p2tog, p 1, turn

Next row: sl 1, knit 12, sl1k1 psso, k1, turn

Next row: sl 1, purl 13, p2tog, p1 turn

You should have 14 stitches on your needle, be ready to do a knit row across, and your heel is turned…congratulations!  You did it!

 You are now ready to pick up the gusset stitches and get back to knitting in the round.

Here we go!

THE HEEL GUSSET

Slip 1 knit 6 st across the heel. – 7 stitches on the needle.    

Pick up the spare needle from your knitting bag, knit the last 7 stitches.  With this same needle ( now needle #1)  pick up 12 (13) stitches along the right side of your heel flap.  You will have 19 (or 20) stitches on needle #1.

                Big hint!   If you pick up one extra stitch right at the join before you start knitting across the   instep stitches, you will eliminate a very annoying hole that occurs between needles at that spot.   So even though the pattern says pick up 12 st – grab that extra stitch at the bottom making 13 pickup’s.  Your sock will look a lot tidier and you will be a lot happier with your work.

Next row – with your empty needle knit across the 12 stitches on needles #2.   Again with your empty needle, knit the 12 stitches on needle #3. – Needle #2 and Needle #3 become the instep stitches across the front of your sock

Next row – with needle #4, pick up 12 (or 13) stitches (see note) , and then knit the last 7 heel stitches onto the same needle, for a total of 19 (20)stitches on needle #4 .  You are joined in the round once again and ready to begin work on the sock gusset. 

SHAPING THE GUSSET

* Next round, starting with needle #1, knit to 3 sts away from the end of needle #1, k2tog, k1. This decrease slants to the left.  Work st st across needles #2 and 3.  At the beginning of needle #4, k1, ssk, knit to end. This decrease slants to the right.

Next round:  knit  around. *

Repeat these two rounds, decreasing at the end of needle #1 and beginning of needle #4, until you once again have 12 stitches on all 4 needles

You have now shaped the gusset and are ready to knit the foot of your sock.

Let’s take a minute to measure your foot –Remember you are knitting a custom sock for a particular foot.  This time we are fitting your foot, but you might want to make a pair as a gift for another pair of feet..

Measure from the middle of your heel to the tip of your big toe.  Write down this measurement.

Now measure from the tip of your big toe down to just where the toe joins the ball of your foot .

  Subtract your toe measurement from your total foot measurement.   Write down this measurement. 

The length of your sock foot before you start decreasing for the sock toe is from the heel to the base of your toes.

SHAPING THE TOE  - once the foot of your sock is the length you want it to be, start decreasing to round out the toe as follows.

Next round: * Work to 3 sts away from the end of needle #1, k2tog, k1.   At the beginning of needle #2, K 1 SSK, knit to end of the needle.  Work to within 3 sts from the end of needle #3, k2tog, k1.  K 1 SSK at beginning of needle #4, knit to end.

Next round – Knit around.*

Work these two rounds until 16 stitches remain, or 4 stitches per needle.

Next round:  Hold sock so instep is facing you.   Knit 4 stitches from needle #2 onto needle #3.  8 stitches are on front needle.

Turn your sock so the heel is facing you – Knit 4 stitches from needle #4 onto needle #1.   8 stitches are on back needle.   Make sure the same number of stitches are on each needle

Three spare knitting needles can go into your work bag.  You are ready to close up the toe of your sock.

Closing the toe with kitchener Stitch

Hold the two knitting needles parallel to each other.   Cut your yarn, leaving a fairly long tail.

Your yarn should be coming from the first right stitch on the back needle. Thread the tail into your tapestry needle.

1.        Insert tapestry needle into first st on front needle as if to knit, pull yarn through, slip stitch off needle.

2.        Insert needle into second st on front needle as if to purl, pull yarn through, leave this stitch on the needle.

3.        Insert needle into first st on back needle as if to purl, pull yarn through, slip stitch off needle.

4.       Insert needle into second st on back needle as if to knit, pull yarn through, leave stitch on needle.

Continue steps 1 to 4 until all stitches have been joined and are off the needles.

Pull the yarn through to the inside of the sock and weave in ends.  Weave in the tail end on the cuff of your sock .

Congratulations – Your first sock is complete!  On to the next sock in the pair!  After all – you have two feet.

You'll notice, if you follow this blog, that this boot sock is familiar to the last sock tutorial I posted - the difference being the number of stitches, and the size of yarn used, in this case worsted weight wool.  Sock construction principles are the same no matter what material and needles you use - variations on a theme involve thickness of yarn, colour, cables perhaps, a fair isle pattern, lace or all of the above.

These socks were specifically made to put in a hiking boot, a gumboot, or even a ski boot or skate.  They are cozy.  If you have questions, drop a note.  I'd love to hear how you get on.